Hong Kong Palace Museum | Cartier and Women

8001. Tiara

Look carefully at the design of this diamond and pearl tiara. Can you imagine that it started as a hair comb? It was originally made for the wedding of Princess Marie Bonaparte of France to Prince George of Greece and Denmark in 1907. The hair comb was later transformed into a tiara.

The diamonds and pearls were set in the form of a wreath of fruit-bearing olive leaves. The design is a nod to the Greek heritage of Marie’s husband Prince George and represented good wishes for her marriage.

However, life doesn’t always turn out as we have expected, and Marie’s marriage to the prince was not a happy one. Instead of focusing on her failed romance, as an educated woman, she channelled her energies into research and publications on psychoanalysis and became a pioneer of the discipline in France.

8002. Vanity cases

Vanity cases are a staple accessory for women today. They can be small enough to use as a compact case for cosmetics or large enough to use as a clutch bag for everyday occasions. But do you know how long ago this trend started?

The beginning of the 20th century saw the rise of the “New Woman”, as women looked for radical changes in their mental and physical autonomy. Often economically and legally dependent on their male family members, they were expected to be mild-mannered, obedient homemakers. Things that are part and parcel of women’s lives today, such as wearing makeup in public, and even riding a bicycle, were seen as quite outrageous.

Women started to push against these boundaries imposed by a male-dominated society. They sought to make an impact as professionals in the arts and commerce. The demand for vanity cases grew in pace with women’s new, more active and glamorous lifestyles. See how many different styles from this period you can find in this section.

8003. Tiara, pair of bracelets, belt buckle

Do you recognise these blue gemstones? They are called turquoise, and symbolise triumph and prosperity in Persian culture. The pinecone-like paisley pattern on the tiara is widespread in both Persian and Indian design.

These three pieces of jewellery were inspired by the dance company the Ballets Russes. Founded in 1909, the Ballets Russes launched a revolution in ballet aesthetics and production, collaborating with pioneers in dance, visual arts, music, jewellery, and fashion. The company’s creatives also drew inspiration from other cultures and dreamed up ever more bold and brilliant sets and costume designs with masterful use of colour and line.

The Ballets Russes’ groundbreaking productions transformed perspectives on ballet, making dance accessible to people from all walks of life. The magnificently colourful sets and costumes influenced and made a big impression on designers from many fields at the time.

8004. Necklace

This necklace is exquisitely crafted using twenty-seven beads of jadeite most probably cut from the same boulder. The use of jadeite in Western jewellery reached a peak in the early twentieth century.

The American socialite and philanthropist Barbara Hutton received this jadeite necklace as a wedding gift from her father in 1933. Ms Hutton was an iconic figure in a newly formed social group of elites known as “café society”. She was also renowned for her bold and sophisticated taste in jewellery.

The term “café society” describes the elite group who frequented cafés, restaurants and nightclubs in New York, Paris, and London. Its members were a mix of genders and classes, including socialites, bankers, journalists, artists, sports celebrities, and movie stars. Within this international circle, women from different fields shared and exchanged their fashion sense and artistic views.

8005. Panthere clip brooch

Take a close look at this brooch featuring a majestic, growling panther. The panther symbolises freedom, power, and elegance.

“The Panther” was the nickname of Jeanne Toussaint, the first woman to be appointed as Creative Director at Cartier in 1933. She served in this role until her retirement in 1970. It was a time when the jewellery business was dominated by men. With her aesthetic vision and female sensibility, Jeanne Toussaint’s jewellery offered women not only an ease of movement but also a way to express their own personality and character. Her designs became sought after among society women, artists, and even ordinary women.

This panther brooch was acquired by the Duchess of Windsor in 1949. The three-dimensional panther design soon became a big hit among free-willed women in high society as it re-emerged as a totem of emancipation.

8006. Chinese vanity cases

Looking at the objects in this showcase, you may notice many elements of Chinese culture. The Chinese vanity case on the left is a superb example of cross-cultural creation. It is decorated with a lady holding a fan, sitting next to a pine tree and a rock table in a garden. The scene is composed of various precious stones including green-coloured jade and red-coloured coral. The design was inspired by a Chinese porcelain plate in Louis Cartier’s private collection.

Louis Cartier was one of the three Cartier brothers who transformed the family business into a world-renowned jeweller. He was fascinated by all forms of art from China and other parts of Asia. He encouraged his designers to explore and experiment with new styles, materials, and colours inspired by art and culture from around the world.

8007. Gender-neutral wristwatches

The term “unisex” was developed in the 1960s, but the concept of “unisex clothing or fashion” had already been in existence for several decades. Wristwatches are one of the accessories demonstrating the crossing of gender lines.

In 1917, Louis Cartier invented the men’s model of the Tank wristwatch. The fourth wristwatch from the right in this showcase is one of the very first Tank wristwatches produced in the early twentieth century. Wristwatches gradually became popular among women for different occasions because of their size and the freedom of movement they offered. Cartier modified the design of Tank watches to address women’s fashion tastes and lifestyle.

The unisex trend in fashion emerged in response to the evolving roles of men and women after the two World Wars. Unisex design concepts gradually encouraged people to choose accessories based on their personal preferences instead of gender. They also provided different perspectives on gender, which still resonate today.

8008. Necklace, Snake ring, cuff bracelet

Can you spot a ring in the shape of a snake, a cuff bracelet in yellow gold, and a diamond necklace with rubies? These items all belonged to the goddess of the silver screen Elizabeth Taylor. She played many iconic roles epitomising strength, integrity, and femininity. Her performance as Cleopatra is a timeless classic. As a jewellery collector, Ms Taylor personally acquired many extraordinary pieces of jewellery and was gifted many by others, including the diamond and ruby necklace in this showcase. It was given to her by her third husband Mike Todd in 1957.

In her later life, Ms Taylor became a social entrepreneur who was actively involved with HIV and AIDS activism. In 2011, her jewellery collection was sold in an auction and part of the proceeds went to the Elizabeth Taylor AIDS Foundation. Ms Taylor’s passion, pioneering spirit, and glittering career are shining examples of the empowerment of modern women.